May 22 The Myths behind ZERO point mortgages instead of paying points upfront......
One of my first questions when speaking to a client, refinancing or purchasing, is what their goals are for the near future and their long-term. Now, many of us don’t have these so-called crystal balls that many claim to have. Things can happen at any time. But I have a lot of passion in what I do and I care what I do, helping those clients to achieve their dreams. By giving the consumer options in what kinds of mortgage programs there are and the costs behind these programs, I can help them achieve this dream and their goals.
This scenario can sometimes be simple math and not the calculators online that tell you if you should refinance or even buy a house. These calculators are a formula made up by someones calculated guesses and certain factors included. I am not looking for the typical answers of; “I want Zero points” and “I want a no cost loan". Just because the client says that they want this type of loan, doesn’t mean that it fits their needs.
I am going to use an example in regards to someone doing a mortgage of $300,000. Let’s keep the example simple by stating the only closings costs will be zero points and with 2 points. I am not using credit scores or mortgage insurance. Again, keeping this very simple.
Part 1 At this point, the difference of payment is $120.89 a month. The total points that you will be paying is $6,000. Basic math says that it would take you 49.63 months to recoup the points that you paid. That is less than 4.2 years, which means that your break even point on paper is 4.2 years. But let’s take it one step further. Assume that you are in a 28% tax bracket for income tax purposes. You will be writing off $1,680 on your taxes the next year. So if you subtracted the $1,680 from the $6,000, you actually paid $4,320 in points. Now your break even point would be 35.73 months which would make that slightly less than 3 years. WOW….. So if you stayed in your house for more than 3 years, you are making money. You need to consult your accountant on the different tax deductions when it comes to purchasing and refinancing. There is also a difference in how much you can write off depending on if you are purchasing a home or refinancing your home.
Part 2 Here is where so many lenders fail in educating the average client or where the client doesn’t see the true savings. You also have the amortization of the loan. If you kept the loan for 3 years (the break even point) at 6.375%, your principal balance would be $289,008. If you were paying 5.75% for those same 3 years, your principal balance would be $287,725. This is a difference of $1,283 savings by paying 2 pts to get your interest rate lower.
Summary : Overall, in reality, your break even point would be less than 3 years, because of the amortization. It would almost be 2 years if you stayed in the house for 3 years. Talk about putting your money to good use. Another reason why sometimes putting less down and using that extra money for your rate would make more sense.
In closing: Again, these are examples and not including other lender costs or even mortgage insurance depending on your down payment. This comparison is just for informational purposes in explaining how points and no points work. And yes, you would need that extra money to even buy the rate down. But you can also get it from the seller, in a seller’s concession. This doesn’t always apply to everyone because of the money issues. And it also comes down to your monthly and yearly goals, may it be short term or long term. But this is a good dissection of what your money can do for you and how it can work for you. And one of the old MYTHS of points is that the lender is making more money. This is not true at all, as long as your lender is comparing true apples to apples.
***These rates and points are an example from 05/21/2008 for a 30-day lock on a conventional loan with credit scores above 680 and no mortgage insurance. It all depends on your income and credit qualifications in order to get these rates.*** http://www.fhaloansfhamortgages.com/0035EE
nice article, but take it further...... $300,000 loan at 6.375%, P&I is $1871; $300,000 w/ 2 pts at 5.75%, P&I is $1750 however, if you use the 2% towards down payment instead of points: $294,000 at 6.375% is $1834 your breakeven is actually 6 years, not 3. and in 3 years you would owe only $283k. nice web site though, easy to read. Regards,
Timouthy, I don't think I follow you 100%, because of the comment. You said, but take it further. Yes, if you use the money that you would have used for points, you would be borrowing $294,000. And yes, your payment would be $1,834 a month. By doing this, your payment is still $84 more a month. You would be $4,497 ahead on the principal, from paying the points... BUT... I would have $3,024 in monthly savings in 3 years by paying points with a lower rate. Plus the tax write off on 2 points, which would be $1,680. Add these two up, which would be $4,704 that you would have saved. You put that down on your principal and now you are at $283,021, which means that you are ahead of your scenario by $207 on principal. And this is not including the savings that I will be applying monthly both in rate and principal after the 3rd year. These are why I love working scenarios such as these. Hands down, if you have the money, will be there for more than 2 years, or could get the seller to pay for your points, you will come out ahead, instead of putting the extra money down. Just my opinion, but the numbers don't lie. On another note, thanks for the compliment in regards to my blog page. Mary McKnight of RSS Pieces did a fabulous job... thanks, Jeff Belonger It appears that you left out the yearly interest deductions for each loan. If I am not mistaken that would make the numbers closer together. I only saw reference to the points being written off but not the total interest for each loan being written off in your 3 year time frame.
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